Looking at the landscape outside your hotel window, it is difficult to know where you are. Gray, craggy mountains loom out of an ocean so clear and turquoise, it resembles gel toothpaste. Were it not for the barren terrain, the silvery sheets of ice on the ground, and the whistle of freezing air, you’d think you were someplace tropical.
Some frozen cousin to Hawaii, perhaps? After all, there are even volcanoes. Everywhere, vents of steam shoot upward from ground. Geysers erupt in the distance in sprays of scalding water. All over the country, tourists and locals alike are enjoying a dip in geothermally heated pools: nature’s hot tubs.
The locals are friendly and boastful. They all seem to know each other, and are excited to tell you all about themselves.
Oh, and they’re very adamant about one thing: they don’t enjoy Bjork’s music all that much.
This is Iceland.
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Mention to your friends that you plan on visiting Iceland, and you’re bound to meet a few raised eyebrows.
Some will ask why. Others will simply be confused. “You mean Ireland,” they correct – a statement that sounds far more plausible. But Iceland? It’s so … random. While everyone has an idea of what it’s like to visit Italy or Germany (even if they’ve never been there), preconceived notions about Iceland are few and far between. Last spring’s eruption of Eyjafjallajokull and its impact on European air travel is probably the most international press Iceland has received since … well, ever. It isn’t that folks have a flawed impression of the country- it’s that few people have any impression of Iceland, whatsoever.
This might be because it’s hard to have an impression of a place so unique. Iceland is, wholly and utterly, unlike any other place on earth.
The terrain might as well be the set of a sci-fi movie. Iceland is located just south of the Arctic Circle. Its holy-cow-that’s-far-north location means that nearly two-thirds of the country is tundra, rendering it uninhabitable. So it’s no surprise that the majority of the cities, including the capital of Reykjavik, are located along the relatively warmer coasts.
There are plenty of opportunities to get up-close-and-personal with the mountainous terrain. Dress warmly and find an outdoor tour – this isn’t the sort of place where you’ll want to roam around on your own. The icy roads, glaciers, and jagged volcanic rocks can be treacherous to someone unfamiliar with them, but the stunning views are worth it
And yet, you should still pack your bathing suit.
The island country is dotted with pools, heated by underground lava flows to a toasty 104 degrees. It’s hard to decide what the best part is: lounging in water that’s a shade of blue usually reserved for sports drinks, or being able to go for a comfortable swim while it’s snowing out.
These steamy spas aren’t the extent of the country’s geothermal magic. Nearly all the food consumed in Iceland is grown on the island, in greenhouses heated with – you guessed it – geothermal energy. Looking at a bright red tomato on your plate, you can’t help imagine that it, too, is wondering how it got here.
Alongside that hot house tomato are a collection of boiled potatoes and a perfectly cooked, ridiculously fresh piece of fish, likely caught that day. It’s followed by a bowl of skyr, a velvety dessert that brings to mind yogurt, but is so much more.
In few other places do “tundra” and “locally-sourced” go hand in hand, with such delicious results.
For the brave of heart and strong of stomach, there’s also fermented shark. That’s right: fermented shark. Two words most people don’t associate with haute cuisine. Not feeling up for a delicacy that’s been described as tasting like “ammonia-flavored cheese”? Fair enough. How about a small glass of aquavit, instead? Just as Icelandic, but infinitely more palatable, this beverage consists of grain alcohol infused with fruit and herbs. It packs quite a punch, and is the perfect way to end a rich meal.
You’ll want a local to help you navigate these uncharted culinary waters, but fear not: there should be plenty at hand. Even if you arrived in Iceland by yourself, it’s nearly impossible to avoid picking up a few friends along the way. Of course, one shouldn’t generalize about an entire country’s people. This is a basic rule of travel. And yet, it seems that all Icelanders could be filed under people, friendly. It might be due to Iceland’s remoteness: with visitors are relatively uncommon, locals may want them to feel more comfortable. Or perhaps it’s because in a country of 300,000 people, it’s best not to make enemies. Whatever the reason, the inhabitants of this distant, frozen land are warm, inviting, and familiar.
Your new-found friends might tell you about the country’s folklore (tales peppered with Vikings, Norse gods, and trolls) and historical sagas. One thing is certain: if your elementary school Social Studies class had been half as entertaining, you’d have gotten much better grades.
As for music, most Icelanders will eagerly tell you that their country has a lot more to offer than just Bjork. Musician Emiliana Torrini worked as a waitress in her father’s restaurant in Reykjavik before going on to a successful music career — she’s toured with Moby, Dido, and Sting among others. Mention Sigur Ros, an Icelandic rock band that’s reached international acclaim (despite the fact that the majority of their songs are written in their native tongue), and you’ll get a few hearty slaps on the back.
Hundreds of nights out in Iceland have come to a close in this way: with several rounds aquavit and a few rousing renditions of Icelandic folk songs in a warm, cozy tavern. Those less daunted by the cold may opt to venture outside into the chilly night. Still feeling peckish? For hungry night owls and those trying to preemptively stave off the after-effects of a night over-indulging in aquavit, there are plenty of options. Hot dog vendors are everywhere around Reykjavik, even in the early hours of the morning. For those craving something sweeter, there are stands that sell freshly baked waffles, slathered in Nutella. As you hold the warm confection in your hands, you might reflect on your trip …
Hiking, naturally-heated pools, fresh-caught fish, new friends, and now a gooey chocolate waffle. And just like that, suddenly Iceland doesn’t seem so cold anymore.